I’ve been swinging golf clubs since I was a pre-schooler in the backyard. Once baseball proved to be too big a dream for me, I played competitively in high school and college. This gave me opportunity to enjoy some exceptional courses, and through the years I’ve been able to further my experiences with trips to some of America’s great golf playgrounds, both public and private. I grew up and live just a couple hours from the Monterey Peninsula, so I know the wonder of coastal golf quite well. But it wasn’t until the summer of my 56th year (2019) that I was able to make my way to Scotland and play the game where it first took hold. From that time, I gathered five reflections. Whether you’re planning your first trip to Scotland or your tenth, maybe you’ll find a nugget of value among them.
Find a shot you can hit low
Wind is a real thing in Scotland. It’s no more real than in some stateside places, like Texas or the coasts, but I don’t play much in three- and four-club winds where I live, so I had to think about what I would do when the winds blew in my face. You can always hit a punch shot, like you do to escape from the trees, but that won’t give you much distance off the tee. For me, I was able to pluck a shot from my arsenal, one that I use to hit a low draw on a particular hole at a course I play often at home. In Scotland, this right-to-left bullet with the driver became my go-to. You’ll want one, too.
Take your time
One of the sweetest people I’ve ever met in the game is Bill Rogers, who won the Open Championship in 1981 at Royal St. George’s. Almost needless to say, the man is one of those who have a love affair with golf across the pond. As it turns out, I had reason to talk to him a week or so before I left, so I asked him for any advice he had for me. He told me, “I see so many guys go over there and try to cram in 36 and 54 holes a day. They’re trying to score well every time out, too, and they’re just frustrated. They don’t get to know the country or the people. So take your time.” I liked this advice. As it was, I played seven rounds in the seven golf days I had planned for this trip. With the long summer days, this gives you time for a full round of golf, but still leaves the rest of the day for sightseeing and relaxation of other kinds. I shared this trip with my non-golfing wife, and I know she appreciated this not-so-crazy pace.
Hey, it’s warm!
Because my trip was in the summer, I found that I packed more layers of clothing than I needed. Another friend I talked to before I left was PGA professional Bill Euler, who has led a number of trips to the British Isles. He told me it is always warmer there than you’d think, but I kept reading about those necessary layers and remembering how gloomy Scottish golf can look on TV. But the daily highs were always in the 60s, so even coming from the typical 100-degree summer days where I live, it never got that cold. In fact, when it got wet, I’d throw on my rain jacket only to find I was too hot in a matter of minutes. So in the summer, at least, I’d recommend the microfiber slacks and shirts that shed water well and count on taking a few minutes’ cover if you need to let an especially big storm pass. And if you’re used to cooler climes than I am, you might even wear shorts at some stops.
Less is more
We’ve already talked about not going golf crazy every day of your trip, but here’s another question you’ll face—do I race from place to place or settle down in one area? While golf is everywhere in Scotland, the country offers at least five hotbeds: east of Edinburgh (for Gullane, North Berwick, and Muirfield), the west coast (for Royal Troon, Prestwick, and Turnberry), St. Andrews (with seven courses right in town), toward Aberdeen (for Carnoustie, Royal Aberdeen, Trump International, and Cruden Bay), and Dornoch (for Royal Dornoch, Brora, and Golspie). Each of these locales has more than the courses listed within a 15- to 20-mile radius, so you can stay in one place and play golf for days. One of the real advantages is that you can play courses two or three times and really get a feel for them, just like you do at home. When you zip from course to course, even the great holes can start to run together in your mind. I did a little of both on my trip, but settling down in the Dornoch area and playing with a friend who has made it his summer home was a treat, for sure. And guess what? We each made a hole-in-one at Brora, three days apart. Glad I didn’t move on too quickly!
Keep reading
I read a lot before I left about the courses I might be playing. Magazines, online articles, and coffee table books all served to make deposits in my knowledge bank. This helped me make choices when I got there—especially to include the visual wonder that is Cruden Bay. But I’ve found that since I’ve been home, reading more about these courses is even better. Now I can picture the holes in my memory and agree or contest with the writer about the qualities of a particular hole or course. More than that, I can lay plans for which courses to include next time, which is a dreamy thing to do whether or not I make it back.